Relax – Newton Exterior House Painters Can Do It All!
A great exterior paint job not only makes the outside of your house look spectacular, it also protects it like a waterproof raincoat. You can do it yourself if you really have the equipment and know-how to do the job right or you can enlist the help of professional exterior house painters. This article will explain what all is involved. One of the best ways to get a great job done is to hire the exterior house painters at A Rated Painters.
Painting the exterior of your house not only enhances its aesthetics, it also safeguards it from harsh weather conditions. if you’re painting the outside of your home without the assistance of a carpenter, you must keep two rules in mind: purchase the right paint for the job, and prep the surface properly. Another great rule is to call A Rated Painters in Newton MA at (617) 997-1294.
To begin, perform a test to figure out how much work is necessary. Select a secluded area where paint is not at its best. Sanitize the surface, and once it dries, paint a small patch on it. On the day after, push on a piece of tape against the painted spot, then hastily yank it off. If that tape has no paint on it, it is safe to wash, prep and repaint the rest of the house. But if the tape shows paint all the way down to the wood, you’ll need to apply a paint stripper first.
Many older houses are covered with oil paint. When adding a new coat, you have a couple of choices: stripping it bare or touching it up. You can attempt sporadic touch-ups using oil, but the paint is liable to peel, as it becomes brittle, and also oxidizes. When this happens, you can scrape off the portions that are peeling, have the bare areas primed, and then use latex to repaint it. Spots that aren’t scraped will likely peel, so the process can be repeated. Eventually, your home will be covered with latex paint that holds up.
For another option, you can start over with latex after having the house stripped down to bare wood. This approach is rather costly, but if done properly, you will actually save money, as you won’t need to repaint the house for a while, nor continuously patch it up. Use this method if you find an abundance of flakes or cracks. For peeling, blistering, or wrinkling — which are usually caused by too much heat, moisture, or humidity — you’ll need to fix the wetness issue that’s producing these concerns prior to repainting.
Whichever approach you use, be mindful that applying paint over a surface that has not been prepped is no different than attempting to hang paper on a fridge without a magnet. It won’t remain in place.
Keep in mind that, until 1950, lead paint was regular. In 1978, it became outlawed in the U.S.A. Don’t use any product for paint removal that you think might have lead as an ingredient. For more details about lead paint, contact the EPA hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD.
Prior to the commencement of your project, mask doors and windows with builder’s paper or heavy plastic, then place drop-cloths on the floor. Remove loose paint with a hook scraper. Use a putty knife in areas where the wood is unbalanced, as it won’t cause too much damage, if any. For the rest of the paint, sand it down until the finish is dull, and either feather or taper thicker areas. Get rid of all caulking that is cracked. Use a garden hose to wash the house, and remove any loose paint that remains with a wire brush. Don’t use an iron or steel brush, as they could glaze the surface or leave stains behind.
At this point, it’s time to apply primer. The paint should be mixed with a heightened amount of binder, so that it tightly fastens to the wood and the following layer of paint to be applied. Several painters choose to use oil-based types for their ability to penetrate and block stains that bleed out of cedar and redwood. For a durable paint job, we suggest using an acrylic latex for laying the foundation. This initial primer coat makes nail heads, small cracks, and other flaws more apparent, so you should fill them up with exterior filler and a latex caulk. Consider using a light weight spackle and sand until leveled, as well as a two-part epoxy. Don’t forget to use primer prior to filling or caulking. Afterward, wipe up the surface of the house using a damp cloth to remove any lingering dust before applying a second coat of primer.
Begin with an effective scraping by hand if the whole house is being stripped down to the bare wood. Once you’ve scraped off as much as you can, patch all gaps and gouges using a two-part wood epoxy before sanding the rest of the surface until it’s leveled.
Even the most rigorous sanding and scraping won’t knock loose mildew and mold on mature wood, a cleaning solution consisting of trisodium phosphate and bleach mixed with a couple of gallons of water should be effective. Spray the surface of the house as you scrub using a brush with stiff bristles. After about 30 minutes, use a garden hose to rinse it. Don’t use a power washer for this, as older wood could get damaged from the streaming jets.
The house should be left to dry for a full day in the sun. To ward off moisture incursions, you can then pre-treat the bare wood using a transparent water-repellent that can be painted over. Ensure that the brand you purchase contains a repellent, perhaps wax, so that the wood doesn’t swell too much when it rains. Additionally, inspect the label for a preservative that destroys mildew, as it may cause the wood to rot, or result in fading of the top layer of paint. Look for IPBC or 3-ido-2-propynyl butylcarbamate. Repellents that don’t contain the label “paintable” may include too much wax, which may prevent the paint from sticking. This treatment should be allowed to dry for a couple of days in the sun before primer is applied.
You’ll then be prepared to apply an alkyd primer coat, which contain adhesives that aid in maintaining the wood. Once the initial coat of primer is applied, seal door joints and window frames with acrylic latex caulking containing silicone. Apply an acrylic latex for the second coat of primer.
You’ll need approximately a gallon of paint for every 400 square feet to paint and prime bare wood. To figure out the amount you’ll need in general, take measurements of the area to be painted to determine the square footage of the area. Divide that number by 400 to determine how many gallons per coat you’ll need. Stucco and other coarse levels will require additional paint, so use 200 square feet per gallon for such surfaces.
Many paint jobs can be done using a 2” angled sash brush, a 3” straight-edge siding brush, and a 2.5” straight-edge trim brush. Efficient brushes contain tapered (chiseled) ends with long bristles and split (flagged) tips. The bristle is contingent on the paint: hog’s hair and other organic bristles take in moisture from latex paints, destroying the brush, and as such, should only be used for oil. Polyester and nylon brushes do not release oil paint consistently, and therefore should just be used for latex.
Always begin at the top and brush downward, so that all drips are smoothed over as you move. If oil paint is being used, lather it into the wood; latex will level itself out. Paint sprayers offer coverage four to five times quicker than brushes do, but the finish won’t appear balanced. Further, half the paint drifts away with the airless version. Apply paint lightly if you choose to use a sprayer. A couple of thin coats are more efficient than a single thick one.
Even though the summer heat might seem beneficial to house painting, paint shouldn’t be applied to any exterior if the temperature is over 90°F. Practical weather for exterior painting would be anything over 50°F (10°C) and over 40°F (4°C) for oil paints for latex. This is applicable to air temperatures and painted surfaces. Painting at temperatures lower than this could be problematic, as rolling and brushing could prove harder to do, and drying paint could invite insects, airborne dirt, and pollen.
During the right weather temperatures, paint the north side first, then the east, south and lastly, the west. Allocate a couple of hours for paint to dry before the weather cools down. If the wood surface begins to blister, let paint dry for about three days before scraping off the blisters, then level the sides with sandpaper, and finally, repaint.
Apply a couple of finish coats within two weeks of one another to stop chalky substances from forming on the surface. Should more than two weeks go by, scour the paint with a stiff-bristled brush and water prior to the application of another coat.
Once the body of the house has been painted, start with the trim. Trim work warrants oil-based paint, as it leaves behind a nice luster. There isn’t an alternative for trim brushwork; it gives you more control in such detailed areas.
Done right, a paint job could last as long as 15 years, but the durability is contingent on where the house is, and just how much protection it has from the wind, sun and rain. Ultimately, your brushwork will maintain your house’s beauty and protection. Save yourself the time and hassle of doing it yourself and hire professional, exterior house painters.